Foundations... where on earth do you start? It is so overwhelming - I think I must get this makeup question more than any other. Even as someone who has spent 27 years in the beauty industry, I still feel that sense of “where do I even begin?” when I see the amount of products that are available.

That is why I really wanted to chat with this week’s guest on Smiling Gives You Wrinkles®, makeup artist Donna May and founder of Donna May London.

Look, Donna is in the trenches when it comes to makeup; she is testing these products every single day on her clients, so she knows what really works. We’re all being sold the idea that “this is good for that” and “this is the solution for this,” but in reality, it’s just confusing.

So, we decided to tackle the six most common problems when it comes to finding the perfect base, and the specific products that actually solve them.

How do I get my foundation to last all day without it sitting in my wrinkles?

The Expert Verdict: Manage your expectations - unless you are okay with a heavy, matte finish, you will struggle to find a longwear base that doesn’t settle into lines.

Donna says that one of the biggest hurdles we face when shopping for a foundation is the ‘longwear’ trap. We all want our makeup to last, yes, but as Donna explains in the podcast, if you see that ‘longwear’ label on the bottle, it will likely mean that it’s matte:

“It’s gonna be a heavy duty matte foundation. So it’s really misleading, the packaging.”

If you’re not prepared to wear a heavy-duty mask-like base, the next best thing is one of the new generation glow foundations that offer reasonable staying power without the flat finish. Donna’s top pick for this is the Yves Saint Laurent Beauté All Hours Glow: “This is really nice and glowy.”

How do I make my foundation look dewy and not dull on dry skin?

The Expert Verdict: Don’t assume that if the word ‘serum’ is on the packaging, that the base will appear glowy on the skin - some are surprisingly flat.

Even the word ‘serum’ on a bottle isn’t a guarantee of glow. Take the new Clarins Double Serum Foundation - Donna’s opinion on it was a real eye-opener:

“It’s too matte. It feels weird when it goes on. Even though it’s got all this serum stuff in it, it’s not glowy. You would expect the opposite.”

So if you do have dry, midlife skin and you’ve been disappointed by skincare-first serum foundations, Donna suggests looking for more liquid-y formulas that have more movement as you apply them. Her gold standard for this is the Lisa Eldridge Enhancing Skin Tint: “That is glowy, really nice, lovely.”

Why does my foundation always look orange or too yellow?

🎬 WATCH THIS PODCAST CLIP WHERE DONNA EXPLAINS WHY…

If your foundation looks “off” the moment you apply it, the brand or product usually isn’t the problem - it’s the undertone. To get that really natural finish, you have to understand your skin’s base colour first. And Donna’s ‘vein test’ is one of the easiest rules to follow:

“Basically the rule is, if you’ve got blue veins, you’re normally pink toned skin... you’re cool. Think Nicole Kidman. And then if you’ve got green veins, you’re normally olivey skinned and you’ve got a yellowness under your top layer... that means you’re a warm skin tone. Think JLo.“

Once you know your tone, Donna suggests shade matching with a tried-and-tested classic like Clarins Skin Illusion Foundation, which she far prefers over their newer launches: “I do love the Clarins Skin Illusion. This one, really glowy. It’s gorgeous. Been around for a long time... I much prefer that over the new Double Serum Foundation.”

What is the easiest foundation to apply quickly when I’m in a rush?

The Expert Verdict: Use a glowy stick formula for ‘bumping’ on coverage mess-free.

Foundation sticks are amazing for travel and the morning rush because they are mess-free and you don’t need brushes to apply them. Donna loves the Kiko Milano Hug Couture Stick:

“It’s lovely and glowy and lightweight. I really like the component of that. Just like, bumping it on the skin like that.”

Is e.l.f Halo Glow a good dupe for Charlotte Tilbury Flawless Filter?

The Expert Verdict: It’s a brilliant third-of-the-price dupe that you can mix into any foundation for a quick boost of glow.

Donna says that you don’t always have to spend a fortune to fix a base that feels a bit flat and recommends the e.l.f. Halo Glow as a serious contender for one of the most famous luxury glow products on the market:

“It’s the rip-off of the Hollywood Glow by Charlotte Tilbury. A third of the price or something, and it is proper glowy. I mean, it’s really glowy.”

But Donna’s real pro-secret isn’t just wearing it alone; it’s using it as a “booster” for your other products: “It’s really nice actually to mix with another foundation or just use quite sparingly.”

Which glowy foundation offers the best sun protection for mature skin?

The Expert Verdict: The IT Cosmetics Nude Glow contains a high SPF 50 sun protection but still gives skin a glowy, second-skin finish.

If you want your base to work as hard as your skincare, especially when you’re in the sun, this is the one. Donna loves it because it delivers that high-level protection without the typical “SPF grayness” or heavy texture that can settle into lines. As Donna says during the chat:

“It’s beautiful, and it’s got 50 factor in it... which I love.”

This is the result of tipping out one of my cupboards and putting some of the supplements that I’m told I should be taking onto my kitchen island. Most of these tubs are half-empty where I’ve started to take them and then forgotten to keep up with the routine.

After 27 years in the industry, I’ve been pushed to buy every “miracle” pill that there is, but nothing quite compares to the complete deluge of supplements we’re seeing right now. It’s clearly become a massive, multi-billion dollar money-making business, and I’ll be the first to admit that even I’ve been bought into it. As a beauty editor running my own business, I’m constantly challenged by making a financial return. The supplement industry is a tempting one; there is a big pot of money sitting there just waiting for anyone with a name for themselves to put their name against a bottle.

Reach Over Results: The Celebrity "Gloss" Trap

I’ve navigated this before - I had one sponsorship about three years ago that paid about $2,000 in return for talking about them on an Instagram reel. At the time I’d tested the supplements over 4 months and did really like them, so I was happy to put my name against the brand. But now, as the industry takes over and becomes so ‘shouty’, I’m not sure how comfortable I feel promoting brands that have results that are hard to measure. Many brands seem to pay anyone to speak about them, as long as they have a "name" and can give them the reach.

I feel like they aren’t really talking to real women about the results they’re getting. When you see a celebrity who looks great, is it really these supplements giving them their "gloss"? I highly doubt it. How do we really know that they work? I’ve even known some brands to send out supplements and pay people to promote them when they don’t even expect them to give them a fair trial.

So, how do we know that supplements work?

On social media, the reels and posts that are selling supplements have almost become white noise. And so I think it’s finally time for us to strip back and really understand the ones that we should be trying. That’s why I brought nutritionist Amanda Ryder back onto my podcast, Smiling Gives You Wrinkles, to give us her ‘supplement audit’ and share the ones she really believes in - from clinical studies and her own clinic - and the ones that she thinks all women should take.

The Clean List: Brands to Trust

When you are spending your hard-earned money, Amanda insists on pharmaceutical-grade quality over pretty packaging. Her trusted list includes:

• Bare Biology (Amanda’s personal choice for Collagen, Fish Oil, and Creatine)

• Pure Encapsulations

• Thorne

• Metagenics

• Designs for Health

• Ancient + Brave

The Gut Sabotage: Why Your Body Might Be Rejecting Your Supplements

I asked Amanda if it was possible to take too many supplements, and her answer was a revelation. It turns out that some of those ‘shouty’ brands we see all over social media aren’t just a waste of money - they might actually be sabotaging your gut and straining your liver. If you’ve ever wondered why your body seems to be ‘rejecting’ those half-empty tubs on your counter, this is why:

These are the 6 essential supplements for your 40s and 50s.

Amanda’s philosophy is that food comes first, but for women in our age bracket, these six supports can bridge the gap:

1. Magnesium Glycinate: The ultimate “helper molecule” for sleep, anxiety, and muscle relaxation.

2. Creatine Monohydrate: Her top recommendation for maintaining muscle mass and clearing brain fog.

3. Omega-3 Fish Oils: Essential “oil for the engine” to fight midlife inflammation and dry skin.

4. Vitamin D: A non-negotiable for immunity and bone health, especially during the winter months.

5. Collagen (Bovine & Marine): To support skin elasticity and joint health as our natural levels decline.

6. Vitamin C & B12: Targeted support for energy and helping your body actually synthesize the proteins you’re taking.In an industry that often buys reach over results, the best thing you can do is to stop buying the hype and start studying the ingredients list.

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Which ones do you take and rate? Do you think Amanda’s missed any?

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Personally, I get so overwhelmed that I end up taking none, but I’m definitely going to give some these a try. In fact, I scooped some creatine into my water before the gym this morning already :-)

If you want to listen to the full episode with Amanda, then please support my podcast Smiling Gives You Wrinkles ♡

But I also brought back something much more useful for a woman approaching 50: a face full of fresh collagen.

As an award-winning beauty editor with 27 years in this industry, I’ve made a very public choice to stay Botox-free as I approach my 50th birthday. It’s a personal manifesto that landed me in the headlines of The Sun, after I was - quite literally - trolled for having wrinkles. Apparently, at 49, I’m “too wrinkly” for my job 🙄

But here’s the thing: natural doesn’t have to mean neglected. While I’m not interested in chasing a younger version of myself that’s always out of reach, I have recently become obsessed with banking collagen. So, before I headed to Soho for my tattoo, I went to see the brilliant Emma Wedgwood at her Mayfair clinic for the one treatment I swear by instead of Botox: Sofwave.

What is Sofwave?

Imagine the ultrasound they run over your tummy when you’re having a baby. It’s the same technology, but it delivers heat deep into the mid-dermis.

This is the “sweet spot” where your fibroblasts live - the little factories that produce collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. As Emma explained to me, we hit a “collagen cliff” in our mid-40s where we lose about 1% every year.

“You can drink as much goddamn collagen in the world as you like, but it ain’t giving you collagen in your face,” Emma told me. “This is where you get your hit.”

By triggering a massive surge of these three essentials, Sofwave helps to lift the brows, tighten the jawline (my main concern this time around!), and give that “glass skin” glow without ever changing your face shape. It’s ‘tissue remodeling’ at it’s finest!

The Results: The 12-Week Slow Burn

While I personally saw an immediate glow both times I’ve had it done, it takes 12 weeks for that new collagen and elastin to fully remodel your skin. The results then last for 12 to 18 months.

My first Sofwave treatment was over 2 years ago and I can vouch for the results. They really are something amazing. And other poeple notice them too. You just get those lovely remarks like, “Oh my god, you look really, really well!” It’s your face - but better.

The “You, But Better” Effect

I’m not trying to look 10 years younger; I just want to look like the best, most dewy version of me at 49 (almost 50)! I want a face that expresses every emotion - one that you can read like a book. But also one that glows with life!

This past week since I’ve had it done, (and with a skin-draining long haul flight added on), I’ve already noticed a difference in my skin.

The “Spicy” Reality: Pain & Price

I’m not going to sugarcoat this for you: Sofwave is painful. I’ve given birth twice naturally - one of my boys was 10lbs 1oz - and while the pain isn’t the same, the tolerance level required is right up there. It radiates in peaks and troughs, a bit like contractions. Emma was like a midwife, supporting me through it with a high-strength compound numbing cream, a cold-air blower, and a stress ball. I also took 3 Tylenol (that’s 1500mg worth of paracetamol) beforehand.

I filmed this clip halfway through the treatment…

WHAT HELPED ME TOLERATE THE SOFWAVE PAIN

I squeezed the life out of the stress ball and I waved the cool air blower around to help cool my skin down, but I found this helped most: as I could feel the heat coming, I would take a long, slow deep breath in. And then a full breath out as the heat cooled.

Is Sofwave worth the money?

100% YES! But it’s an investment. The machine itself costs over £100,000, and practitioners are charged over £1.30 for every single “shot” they fire into your skin. And for a full face, you’re looking at 300 to 450 shots.

• The Cost: My treatment would have cost over £3,000.

• The Downtime: Zero. I walked from Mayfair to Soho right after. My skin felt energized and “cold” from the numbing, and while I had a few tiny bumps for 24 hours, I looked like I’d just been for a very healthy run.

Can I have Sofwave with Botox or Filler?

Absolutely. While I use it as an alternative, many women use Sofwave to compliment their injectable routine. Just remember the golden rule: wait two weeks after having Botox or filler before getting Sofwave in the same area.

Where to Book Sofwave:

I saw Emma Wedgwood in London’s Jo Hansford salon. She is holistic, honest, and doesn’t want to change how you look - just how you feel when you look in the mirror.

• Website: www.emmawedgwoodaesthetics.co.uk

• Instagram: @emmawedgwoodaesthetics

Pricing at Emma Wedgwood Aesthetics:

• Brow lift: £1,800

• Lower face & submental: £2,500

• Full face & neck: £3,300

Find A Sofwave Practitioner Near You:

• Global Directory: Official Sofwave Provider Finder

See the Sofwave Transformations:

You can check out the official Sofwave before & after photos here to see the lifting effect that happens after 12 weeks.

For my full Sofwave review, listen to this episode of Smiling Gives You Wrinkles:

I shall report back in 12 weeks when the full effects would have kicked in ♡

DISCLAIMER: THIS TREATMENT WAS GIFTED BY EMMA AND HER PR AND I WAS NOT PAID FOR THIS POST

Last week, I wrote about the 2026 findings on collagen, and I had this comment from a reader:

I've been struggling to decide whether to persevere [with collagen] as I'm not seeing any visible difference (was hoping for stronger healthier nails) after taking collagen for over a year. But I'm all for continuing if it's proven to help soft tissue and flexibility. However.... my big question is what about the different types of collagen. I'm veggie so take Beauty Pie marine collagen. Is that as effective as bovine collagen???”

I feel your pain Shiela. Collagen is confusing! And there is so much noise around all the different collagen types, so if you’re investing your hard-earned money (and it is an investment), you deserve to know if your choice is actually going to make a difference.

This is why, I sat down with nutritionist Amanda Ryder on Smiling Gives You Wrinkles® to get the facts.

Fast Facts: Marine vs. Bovine

• Marine Collagen (Great For Skin): Contains mostly Type 1 Collagen which is the most abundant collagen found in your body. Best for glow, fine lines, and hydration.

• Bovine Collagen (Great For Joints): Contains Types 1 & 3. Best for joints, tendons, and gut health.

• Dietary Note: Marine is pescatarian-friendly; Bovine is not.

• The 10g Rule: Regardless of the type, you need 10g daily to see results.

Why Marine Collagen is Great For Skin

Marine collagen is almost entirely Type 1. This is the most abundant collagen in our skin. If your goal is better skin and hydration (I need it that for my Florida glow!), then Marine is fantastic. However, if you want help with joint pain, soft tissue and flexibility - that is where Marine collagen can fall short.

Why Bovine Collagen is Great for Joints

Bovine contains Type 3, which Amanda describes as the hero for joints, ligaments, and even the gut lining. So if you are struggling with ‘creaky knees’ or plantar fasciitis like I was, Type 3 is your best bet.

The Beauty Ed® Tip: If you aren’t strictly vegetarian, follow Amanda’s lead: Alternate! Marine one day (for skin), Bovine the next (for your body).

The “Triage” Effect: Why your nails aren’t growing

If you’ve been taking it for a year with no “visible” change, don’t panic. Your body acts like a triage center. When you ingest those amino acids, your body sends them to the “high-priority” areas first - like your internal organs or damaged gut lining - long before they reach your nails or eyelashes. If you have internal inflammation, your body is using that collagen to fix the inside, before the outside.

Liquid vs. Powder?

Amanda is firmly Team Powder. Me? For speed and convenience, I am Team Liquid. However, maybe I’ll change my mind now Amanda shared her concerns:

• Microplastics: Liquid sachets may leach microplastics into the product.

• Packaging: Think of the landfill that daily sachet contributes to.

• The 10g Rule: To see results, you need 10g of hydrolyzed peptides daily. Many liquid shots are under-dosed or filled with sweeteners. Two teaspoons of a clean powder in your morning coffee is the most effective way to hit your quota.

🎧 Listen to the Full Episode

FAQ: Boosting Your Collagen Knowledge

Is Marine collagen better than Bovine?

It depends on your goal. Marine is superior for skin hydration (Type 1), while Bovine is better for joint health and recovery (Type 1 & 3).

How long does it take to see results?

Clinical data shows you need a “90-Day Commitment.” Consistency is more important than the brand name.

Can I put collagen in hot tea?

Amanda recommends coffee or smoothies over tea, as the tannins in tea might interfere with absorption. Always look for “Hydrolyzed” or “Peptides” on the label.

🎬 LISTEN TO AMANDA EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BOVINE AND MARINE COLLAGEN

The Shopping List: Which Collagen Should You Actually Buy?

Amanda shares her favs:

1. Bare Biology: Skinful Marine Collagen

This is a top clinical recommendation for those seeking a “Skin Specialist.” It is known for its purity and sustainability.

• Best For: Skin hydration, fine lines, and “dermal density.”

• Link: Shop Bare Biology Skinful Marine Collagen

2. Ancient + Brave: Wild Collagen (Marine) & True Collagen (Bovine)

Amanda and Donna both use this brand for its “Body Architect” approach. Their bovine option is excellent for supporting joints and “scaffolding.”

• Best For: Supporting joints, tendons, and gut health (Bovine) or skin radiance (Marine).

• Link: Shop Ancient + Brave Collagen

3. Kiki Health: Marine Collagen Beauty Blend

This is a favored professional choice because it includes supporting nutrients like Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid, which act as “co-factors” to help your body absorb the collagen.

• Best For: A comprehensive “all-in-one” beauty supplement.

• Link: Shop Kiki Health Marine Collagen

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Donna Francis is an award-winning beauty editor with 27 years of experience in the industry. As the founder of The Beauty Ed® and host of the podcast Smiling Gives You Wrinkles®, she is dedicated to providing evidence-based, unretouched, and honest advice on beauty and aging.

Amanda Ryder is a leading clinical nutritionist specializing in hormonal health and gut integrity. Through her clinical practice, she helps women navigate the complexities of supplementation and nutrition to support long-term wellness and skin health.

A quick edit: Award-winning Beauty Editor Donna Francis and Consultant Dermatologist 44-year-old Dr. Justine Kluk give their expert review of the "Botox in a bottle" trend, and admit that while topical serums like SkinCeuticals P-TIOX cannot paralyze muscles, their advanced peptide formulas can mimic the "reflective" glow of injectables, making them a powerful non-invasive tool for "juicy" midlife skin.

Keep scrolling to watch an exclusive podcast clip and to find out Justine’s budget ‘botox in a bottle’ alternative…

When I sat down with my favorite, not to mention my most trusted consultant dermatologist, Dr. Justine Kluk, for the latest episode of Smiling Gives You Wrinkles, I was surprised when she confessed that she was obsessed with a peptide serum that claims to be ‘Botox in a bottle.’

The Skeptic’s U-Turn

When SkinCeuticals P-TIOX first launched, just like me, Justine was the first to roll her eyes.

“The whole beauty and dermatologist world were like, nonsense. Rubbish. [And] I was like, here we go again, Botox in a bottle. And so out of principle, I did not touch the product to begin with.”

So, what changed? Curiosity got the better of Justine, and when she tested the product, she said that the results were undeniable - just not in the way the marketing suggested.

It’s Not About “Freezing”

The term ‘Botox in a bottle’ is catchy, but it’s misleading. Botox works by temporarily paralyzing the muscle. A serum works on the surface. But according to Justine, the magic of these new-age peptide complexes (like the hexapeptides that is found in P-TIOX) is how they change the quality of the skin.

“What I did notice about it was that it made the condition of my skin look really good, smooth and glowy... it really helps with the rest of my evening routine. My skin is less dry and irritated from using my retinoid... it’s kind of like a nice little helping hand.”

The “Juicy” Factor

We talked a lot about the “deflated balloon” feeling that hits in your 40s (I’m 49, Justine is 44 - we get it). While it won’t stop your forehead from moving, Justine finds it gives a “reflective” quality to the skin that mimics the glow of injectables like Profhilo.

“When I put a few drops of it on at nighttime, my skin instantly looks more reflective and glowy. It gives me the same sort of feeling as Profhilo injections - my skin just looks really juicy.”

My Verdict

Is it Botox? No. Should you call it that? Probably not. But is there a new generation of high-tech peptide serums that make your skin look more expensive, more resilient, and juicier.

Justine is on her fourth bottle…so I might just give it a try myself!

🎬 Why this Dermatologist thought ‘Botox in a Bottle’ was rubbish (until she tried it).

🎧 Enjoy this clip? Listen to the full podcast episode here:

It’s a question I’m asked all the time, and one that I’ve spoken about on my socials and podcast many, many times too. But I’m always careful about sharing any claims about them unless they are coming from the mouths of experts. Or data-backed research.

Because the collagen supplement industry is worth a lot of money - by 2035 it is projected to be worth $3.3 billion! And it’s clear by all the collagen #ads we see on Instagram and Tik Tok, that there is a lot of money to be earned by brands, creators and influencers who promote collagen too.

But I’ll be honest: I have major influencer fatigue. I’m over being told to buy ‘this one’ or ‘that one’ based on a script. Who - and what - do you actually believe?

I take a collagen supplement everyday. And I’ve been paid once by a collagen supplement brand to talk about it! But the skeptic in me is always thinking: Is it the supplement? Or is it the fact that I’m going to the gym everyday, not drinking, eating well, and finally getting enough sleep?

That’s why I loved recording this episode of my podcast, Smiling Gives You Wrinkles, with nutritionist Amanda Ryder. No ads, no agenda - she just shares truthful clinical findings on what she actually sees happening to her patients when they take collagen.

The 2026 Reality Check

But now, we finally have the clinical data to back up (or not) what all the brands, influencers and creators are trying to sell us.

On February 27, 2026, a massive ‘umbrella review’ was released by researchers at Anglia Ruskin University (ARU). This is widely considered the most comprehensive study on collagen supplements to date, as it analyzed evidence from 113 randomized controlled trials involving nearly 8,000 participants.

And their research is clear: Oral collagen supplements do not significantly impact skin roughness or deep wrinkles. And you know what? I’m actually cool with that. I’ve always said that ‘Smiling Gives You Wrinkles’ (it’s what I called my podcast after all). Wrinkles are the map of a life well-lived. And I don't need a supplement to fix them; I want a supplement that supports the health of my skin.

AND…

The science DOES PROVE that while taking a collagen supplement won't iron out the surface of your skin, it can change the quality of what’s underneath.

Why I’m Still Taking Collagen:

1. It Helps Skin Glow

While the study found that collagen won’t improve wrinkles or skin texture, it did find that it’s great for hydrating the deeper layers of the skin. What this looks like on the outside? It helps with glow!

• What it does: It improves Dermal Density, elasticity, and hydration. Think of it as making the ‘padding’ of your skin thicker and more resilient.

• What it doesn’t do: It won’t iron out deep expression lines or surface texture like a topical retinoid or Botox might.

2. It Helps With Flexibility

It’s all very well having good skin and a smooth forehead, but you’re not good for anyone if you can’t move around flexibly and comfortably! The study proved that collagen is great for:

• Osteoarthritis: It provides significant relief from joint pain and stiffness.

• Muscle & Tendon Health: There were modest but measurable gains’ in lean muscle mass and tendon structure. This was a big win for me: my plantar fasciitis disappeared when I started taking collagen.

The Caveat: It is not a sports performance supplement. It does not help with immediate post-exercise muscle recovery or soreness.

3. It’s Great for Menopause & UV Damage

Being almost 50 and living in Florida, these are great benefits for me personally. The study specifically found collagen is a ‘legitimate’ treatment for:

• Post-menopausal women (where natural collagen depletion accelerates).

• Individuals with UV-damaged skin (photodamage).

The ‘90-Day Rule’

The data confirms what I’ve always said: that consistency is the only way to see benefits. You need at least 3 months of daily use!

So, I'm keeping my wrinkles, and I'm keeping my collagen. One represents where I’ve been, and the other helps me get where I’m going 😀

🎧 LISTEN TO MY PODCAST ABOUT COLLAGEN WITH NUTRITIONIST AMANDA RYDER

Do you take collagen? Which brand do you like? What benefits have you noticed? Tell me in the comments ♡

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I had just had them done a few days before, and coincidentally, my hairdresser had just suggested switching from using permanent colour to a demi, to help soften my grow-out line.

At 49, my relationship with my roots has become a bit of a scheduling nightmare. Every four to five weeks, I’m in my hairdressers chair, colour blocking the greys away - much to the expense of its condition, not to mention my bank balance!

I found my first grey hair when I was about 18 - I knew that it was in my genes, because for as long as I can remember, my mum has had grey hair. She has never dyed it and as you can see from the picture of her below, it is stunning. And in such great condition!

But I didn’t go down the same natural route as my mum - I have been dying my roots ever since my late 30s. Do I regret it? No. But I do realise that it is a battle that I will never win!

What is Grey Blending?

I first heard about Karla via my lovely friend and makeup artist, Donna May. They had met online after Donna had previously tried to grow out her greys.

Karla is a grey blending specialist, and is passionate about showing women that there is more to hair than block colour and zero greys.

For years, we’ve been taught that the moment a grey hair appears, we need full coverage. Karla calls this the Brick Wall. It’s opaque, it’s permanent, and it creates that dreaded ‘skunk stripe’ demarcation line the moment your hair grows a millimeter.

Grey Blending is different. It’s an intricate process of mapping your unique white hair pattern and mimicking it using foiling techniques. Instead of a brick wall, think of it as Stained Glass.

“We don’t want a brick wall; we want a picket fence. A little bit of coverage, but enough transparency to let the light in,” says Karla.

The Science of the Transition

As a Beauty Editor, I’m usually the one explaining the science, but when it comes hair colour, it all becomes white noise (no pun intended!), so Karla had to take me back to school to explain how it works.

🎬 KARLA EXPLAINS HOW SHE HELPS WOMEN GROW OUT THEIR GREY ROOTS

Here is a quick breakdown of how to transition to grey hair without the annoying demarcation phase:

• The Switch to Demi-Permanent: Moving from permanent dyes to demi’s allows the color to stain the grey rather than cover it. This softens the regrowth line immediately.

• The 10-Week Rule: To start a professional blend, you need about 8–10 weeks of regrowth. It’s the ‘uncomfortable’ phase, but it’s the only way for a specialist to see your natural pattern. And a good test to see whether you are ready for the transition!

• Acidic vs. Alkaline: Permanent color is alkaline - it swells the cuticle and, over time, can leave aging hair feeling dry and brittle. Grey blending often uses more acidic products that keeps the hair’s condition and shine.

Are You Ready To Go Grey?

Even though I’m pro-aging, and encourage women to embrace aging with unapologetic joy - I’m not sure if I am ready to go fully grey. I’ve spent my career advocating for no-retouching and self-love, yet here I am, still tethered to a bottle of dark brown dye.

But it’s so personal and a bit nerve-wracking - especially as my hair is so tied up with my identity and confidence.

But one thing is certain: you are fighting an uphill battle when dealing with grey roots and while I’m not ready to go fully grey, I am preparing to allow some silver to show through.

The Grey Blending Toolkit

If you’re ready to start the journey, here is what Karla recommends for your kit:

1. Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Vital for preserving those delicate toners and stops dehydration (grey hair doesn’t produce oils so is extra dry). Karla loves Evo and Wella. I am currently trying Hairstory New Wash which is like the texture of a cleanser. They call it a detergent-free cleansing cream. I am going to do a write up on it soon!

2. Weekly Moisture Masks: White hair is naturally drier and coarser; it needs the ‘night cream’ equivalent of hair care. This is not a regular in my routine I admit, but I am reviewing some and will share my findings asap.

3. A supplement to support hair health from the inside out. I have heard amazing things about Nutrafol and I personally recommend Viviscal. Karla also recommends Glowwa which can bought from salons in the US and UK.

Listen to the Episode

To learn more about grey blending - including costs - listen to the latest episode of Smiling Gives You Wrinkles 👇🏼

I had dermaplaning done for the first time in 2019 when I was 43. It was part of a facial treatment with London aesthetic doctor Dr David Jack.

I loved the treatment. The motions of the blade running over my skin was really relaxing and my skin felt as smooth as a baby’s bum afterwards. Plus, I was told that it would really help my skincare work better - the hairless skin is not only smoother, but primed for better absorption. And in the weeks that followed, my glow did continue I must say.

But while I loved the effects that it had on my skin - softer, smoother, more glowy - I wasn’t confident enough to attempt dermaplaning at home. I had all the classic concerns: If I keep dermaplaning, will the hair grow back thicker? Is dermaplaning hygienic? Will the blade cut my skin?

Fast forward 7 years, and my face fuzz got worse. I started taking testosterone about a year ago which definitely didn’t help - but I had already noticed a slow increase in facial hair as my forties went on. It’s that annoying fine fuzz that catches the light!

So a few weeks ago, during a grocery shop with my mum, I made an off-the-cuff decision to buy a dermaplaner by Japonesque. It stood out as it came with 2 spare blades and had a cooling rollerball on the end.

That night, I decided to try it at home. I couldn’t believe how easy it was - it took all of five minutes and it felt so relaxing too. The blade doesn’t feel sharp - it’s just like running a smooth fingernail over the surface. It felt really relaxing too.

Afterwards, my skin felt so soft and smooth, and it definitely looked brighter - more even. You notice how much better your skincare absorbs too. It makes it feel hydrated and bouncy.

🎬 Watch my first at-home dermaplaning session on Instagram here!

Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?

This is the number one question I get, and the answer is: No. Dermaplaning cuts the hair at the surface level. It does not change the hair follicle or the biology of your hair growth. It’s a complete myth that it returns thicker or darker. Understood? Good lol!

The main benefits of dermaplaning for skin over 40

If you’ve noticed increased facial hair due to hormone therapy or menopause, dermaplaning is a game-changer. It’s not just about the hair. Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliant as it gently removes the top layer of dead skin cells and debris. This helps to:

Absorb skincare better: Your serums and actives actually reach your pores instead of sitting on a ‘carpet’ of hair and dead skin cells.

Add glow: Removing that dulling layer reveals radiant, newer skin.

Prime skin for makeup: Your makeup base sits flawlessly without clinging to peach fuzz.

A Note of Caution: My favourite Consultant Dermatologist, Dr. Justine Kluk, warns that dermaplaning should be avoided if you have active inflammatory skin issues like acne or eczema.

How to Dermaplane at Home

After asking Amy Anzel, founder of the best-selling dermaplaning brand, Hollywood Browzer, and experimenting myself, here is the foolproof method:

1. Start with ‘Squeaky Clean’ Dry Skin

Never dermaplane on wet skin as it causes irritation. While some TikTokers suggest using oil, I don’t advise it. It makes your hands slippery (dangerous!) and stops the blade from catching the hair effectively. Plus oil could cause irritation.

Pro Tip: Amy suggests wiping a cotton pad soaked in toner over the skin first to ensure every trace of oil is gone.

2. The ‘Melted Butter’ Technique

Hold your skin taut with one hand to avoid nicks. And with the other hand holding the tool, use short, feathery downward strokes at a 45-degree angle.

The Pressure: Amy likens the motion to ‘spreading melted butter on a bagel.’ Let the tool do the work; there is no need to press hard.

3. Navigate the Contours

For tricky areas around the lips and chin, stick your tongue inside your mouth to flatten the skin and “uncurve” the contours.

4. Clean as You Go

Wipe your blade on a dry tissue after every few strokes. You’ll be shocked at the amount of hair and dead skin that comes off. Keeping the blade clean also ensures constant friction too.

5. Post-Care Hydration

After dermaplaning, your skin is like a sponge, so hydrate it! I immediately apply a Hyaluronic Acid serum followed by a rich moisturizer. Avoid active acids (like Retinol or AHAs) for 24 hours to prevent irritation.

Don’t forget to:

Replace your blades: Even if it’s still cutting hair, a dull blade causes irritation. Most brands recommend a fresh blade every 3 months.

Sanitize: Use an anti-bacterial spray or witch hazel to clean the tool before putting it away.

I chat all about my dermaplaning ‘journey’ on my podcast, Smiling Gives You Wrinkles®…

Do you dermaplane at home, or are you still a bit nervous about the blade? Let me know in the comments!

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For me, I notice how it helps to make my skin glow, and just look well rested and alive. It feels smoother and softer.

Plus it’s one of the few ingredients that is robustly backed with science that proves it helps to stimulate and bank collagen in the skin.

The Beginners Retinol: No7

I didn’t start using retinol regularly in my skincare routine until 2020, when I was 44. It was the year that No7 launched their Advanced Retinol 1.5% Complex Night Concentrate.

There was a lot of furore at the time because a 1.5% formulation sounds strong for a high street brand - most over-the-counter retinoids don’t go above 1%. But when you dug deeper, you learn that its actual strength is 0.3% pure retinol. The “1.5% Complex” is a blend of that 0.3% retinol plus their MATRIXYL 3000 PLUS - No7’s patented peptide technology that helps calm the skin.

I’ve been a fan of No7 for years. Having been the Beauty Director for Boots’ Health & Beauty magazine, I know the Research & Development (R&D) that goes into the brand. When I worked for The Sun, I even wrote about their first headline-grabbing cream, Protect & Perfect.

0.3% strength is a great starting point for most of us…

…especially if you have sensitive skin. No7 has since renamed it to No7 Pure Retinol 0.3% Night Concentrate to make it less confusing. Thanks, No7!

I even wrote about it for HELLO! It was part of a paid partnership between HELLO! and No7 (which I might add I never received a dime for) but I was happy to share my honest thoughts. I genuinely love it that much!

This retinol has a gel-like texture, is lightly scented and feels light and cooling on your skin.

As the texture is so light, it doesn’t feel like a treatment or active as you apply it to skin, and when I first used it, it made me question if it would actually do anything .

However it did. It helped my skin feel softer and smoother at at time in my early to mid 40s when I was looking for glow and wasn’t too concerned about the droop yet. It became a regular in my nightly skincare routine and I still use it when my skin craves a more gentle retinol treatment.

This costs £39.95 in the UK and $42.99 is the US which is a fair mid-range price for a good quality product.

Moving to A Stronger Retinol: Medik8

About three years ago, when I was 46, I began using Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10. I remember going to their very first launch in London back in 2009. I was 33 then, and…very un-Beauty Editor of me…retinol wasn’t high on my priority list. Now I know it should have been! As Dr. Justine Kluk explained on my podcast, 25 is the sweet spot to start because that’s when collagen begins to deplete.

When I introduced Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10 into my routine, I was at the start of perimenopause and I began noticing the true beginnings of collagen loss on my skin:

• Lines on my upper lip

• Drooping around my jowls and the downtown of my mouth

• Lines around my eyes that didn’t disappear when I stopped smiling

Note: this product is a “Retinal” with an “A,” which means it is more potent.

Medik8 offers six strengths: 1, 3, 6, 10, 20, and 24. These numbers aren’t the actual percentages; they are a grading system. For example, “1” is 0.01% and “24” is 0.24%. I’m in the middle, and “10” (0.1%) suits my normal skin perfectly.

The texture feels like a slightly thicker serum, it has a very subtle scent and you’ll notice it’s a peachy/orange colour - this is due to the retinal ingredient.

When applied to skin, it dries down after just a few seconds and leaves skin feeling like there is nothing on it. Although it doesn’t feel tight or uncomfortable.

I first started using this three times a week, and after a month I noticed that my skin felt smoother and looked more glowy. I knew my skin could tolerate it pretty well - no sign of sensitivity - so now I use it most nights.

I’m not surprised this is sold at a higher price point. A 30ml tube which gives you about 100 applications costs $135 or £89. It is expensive yes, but for over 3 months usage and such incredible results it is 100% worth it in my opinion.

The 2026 Retinal Discovery

I recently discovered Beauty Pie Youthbomb Extreme Retinal Triple Renewal Serum which has a strength that is harder to work out than the Medik8. It features a “5% Power Complex,” which sounds high, but it’s a blend of retinal, retinol, and Bakuchiol (a gentle, retinol alternative that’s made from plants).

The texture feels slightly less thick and creamy than the Medik8. It has a similar scent which must come from the retinal and is slightly less orange. It dries down very similarly to the Medik8 one too.

I love this product and it gives similar results to Medik8. Although I think it’s slightly less potent.

For members of Beauty Pie, this costs $59 or £49 for 30ml, which is fantastic value.

The Retinol For Dehydrated Skin

Some nights my skin craves hydration - I especially notice this if I’ve been out in the sun for a prolonged period, so I want to go to bed feeling like it’s going to be moisturised too. For these nights, I go back to No7 Pure Retinol 0.3% Night Concentrate

Last Bit Of Advice: Don’t chase the highest percentage.

As Dr. Justine Kluk reminded us on my podcast, Smiling Gives You Wrinkles, you must approach skincare like a marathon, not a sprint. You want a product you can use for the next 20 years, not one that makes your skin peel off in five minutes. Start low, find your sweet spot, and stay consistent.

🎬 DR. JUSTINE KLUK EXPLAINS HOW LONG IT TAKES FOR A RETINOID TO WORK

Have a question about a specific product? Drop it in the comments below—I’d love to help you find your “sweet spot.”

But this morning, I received a $100 Sephora voucher as a thank-you gift from someone who has no idea what I do for a living. And even with a constant stream of packages arriving at my door, I was over the moon. Why? Because $100 meant I could restock the one product I refuse to be without.

$100 doesn’t go far these days, so I spent it on the heavy hitter: K18 Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask.

This is my fifth bottle. I first discovered it through my hairdresser a couple of years ago when my hair wouldn’t grow past my shoulders. Perimenopause had taken its toll and my hair was dry, snapping, and losing that full-look that it had when I was younger.

As an editor, I look for the ‘skinification’ of hair formulas - ones that actually change the structure rather than just coating it in silicone. While I still deal with some hormonal hair loss (hello, clogged shower plugs!), this is the product that rescued the health of my hair. It mimics the proteins found naturally in hair strands to repair them from the inside out.

It’s a recommendation that I give most often, and clearly, it’s working for you too.

Just a few of the DMs that land in my inbox every time I mention this stuff:

I apply a couple of pumps to the mid-lengths and ends of my hair after shampooing (make sure you towel dry it first).

I know it’s expensive - in America where I live, I pay $75 for the biggest 50ml bottle in Sephora and I think the same bottle costs about £70 in the UK.

You could buy a 15ml bottle for $29/£30 but I personally don’t think it’s worth it as I know that I will want/need more so I may as well go for the bigger size! Plus if you work out the cost per application, buying bigger will be more cost-effective in the end. The 50ml size usually lasts me 2 to 3 months if I wash my hair 3 times a week.

It has to be noted too, that I have never been #gifted a bottle of this stuff so I appreciate it if you flinch at the price, ‘cos I do too! But it works! And those of you that have tried it agree with me (go back to those DMs above as a reminder)!

Honestly, I still have bad hair days of course. And I still need to work on the ‘bouts of hair loss episodes I have when my hormones spike, but this is the one product I can’t now live without…

And no, this is not an ad! Just a recommendation between friends :-)

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So many of you ask me about retinol, and it’s mostly because you just don’t know where to start. What strength do you need? How much should you be spending? And what is the deal with all the long words?

You have Retinol, but what about Retinal - the one with the “A”? Granactive Retinoid? Retinyl palmitate? WTH is that? And don’t get me started on the numbers: 0.3%? 1%? 10%?

I get the retinol confusion! And that’s coming from a Beauty Editor. But that’s why I wanted to really simplify it for you and just give you the info you need.

What is Retinol?

First up, let me explain what retinol is. The umbrella term for this group of ingredients is Retinoids.

Retinol: The most common version you can buy over the counter.

Retinal: A stronger, faster-acting version of Retinol

Granactive Retinoid: A newer retinoid that provides similar benefits but is better tolerated by sensitive skins.

Retinol is considered to be one of the best, most effective ingredients in skincare. Dermatologists are big fans because it has been proven in numerous studies to actually work. Even Harvard says so!

What does retinol actually do for 40+ skin?

The reason we hear about it so much is that so many brands are now introducing it into their formulas because they know it actually works! And it’s especially brilliant for 40+ skin because it stimulates collagen and elastin production - the proteins that make your skin look plump and bouncy. Think baby skin!

And as you get older, collagen production slows down. It actually begins to decline gradually from the age of 25, and then, when you hit perimenopause, it drops rapidly. Oh, joy! That’s why skin appears to have more lines and starts sagging.

🎬 WATCH THIS CLIP FROM MY PODCAST WITH DERMATOLOGIST DR. JUSTINE KLUK

Retinol is also great for brightening your skin as it gently removes the top layers, so it works hard to reduce pigmentation and it just helps the skin look more glowy. It’s perfect for targeting those niggles that many of us face as we (luckily) age: fine lines, pigmentation, rough texture, and dehydration.

The “Marathon Not A Sprint” Rule

Here’s where you have to be careful. If you use a formula that is too strong for your skin, it will damage your skin barrier - the outer layer - causing dryness and irritation. And as aging skin = drying skin, this is NOT what you need.

There is a “sweet spot” for retinol use. To find it, you must choose the right strength and formulation for your specific skin type. As my friend and consultant dermatologist Dr. Justine Kluk said on the podcast:

“It’s always a good idea if you’re new to things to start at a low strength and build up gradually. Looking after our skin is a marathon, not a race. We don’t have to use the strongest one right from the outset. If we find one that suits our skin, we can use it for upwards of 20 years or so.”

When should you use retinol?

Retinol is best used at night. This is partly because skin repairs itself while you sleep, making it ready to “drink in” the goodness.

But the big reason most people don’t realize is stability. Sunlight can break down retinol, making it less stable and less effective. You don’t want to spend money on a product only for it to be destabilized by the sun!

Also, retinoids make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so wearing SPF the following morning is non-negotiable.

How long does retinol take to work?

Personally, I feel a difference the morning after - my skin just feels softer because it’s been working overnight to dissolve dryness.

But for real change:

• 1 Month: Most people notice smoother skin.

• 3 Months: That “glow” and radiance really start to kick in.

• 12 Months: This is the timeline for structural changes, like reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Don’t give up unless your skin has a bad reaction!

Is it ever too late to start?

It’s never too late, but starting later just means you’ve missed a window of prevention. Dr. Justine believes the sweet spot is from your late 20s to your early 50s.

🎬 I’LL LET DR. JUSTINE KLUK EXPLAIN…

Coming in Part 2: The Editor’s Edit

I really hope that was helpful! Now that you know the science, you’re probably wondering: “Great, but which one do I actually buy?”

Check your inbox next Wednesday - and I’ll let you know 💌

If you’d like to listen to the rest of the podcast with Dr. Justin Kluk, click the link below👇

As a Beauty Editor, I have been sent hundreds of different eye creams to try. I remember being sent this ‘caviar-infused’ one by La Prairie which costs over $400. I thought: I should at least make an effort to try it, considering it cost so much. But I kept forgetting.

And that’s partly why I have never bothered using eye cream. It’s just another bloody skincare step. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy my skincare rituals. I love the soothing effect of applying balm or face oil. But cleansing. Then applying serum. Then moisturiser. Then eye cream. FFS! I realise that this is a first world problem to complain about - but I just can’t be bothered.

I am also not convinced that using eye cream is worth my time. Or my money.

Why can’t I just use my regular face cream over the eye area? Are they really that different?

Will the results be worth it?

Can eye cream really help with eye bags, dark circles and crows feet?

If you check out any skincare aisle or e-tailer site, you’ll find 99% of brands will be trying to sell you eye cream. I can’t think of one skincare brand that doesn’t offer one as a SKU.

But am I right to be this stubborn about doing a step that some people believe is a vital part of a skincare routine? Especially for those of us that fall into the 40+ age bracket.

A few weeks ago, I sat down with one of my favourite dermatologists, Dr. Justine Kluk on my podcast, Smiling Gives You Wrinkles. The main topic during the episode was retinol, and how to use it in midlife, but the conversation led to eye cream - and whether we actually need to use it.

There is no hidden agenda with Justine. She is not trying to sell you product - she just wants to help women find the best solutions for their skin as they age. And Justine’s take on the eye cream debate was the most honest I’ve ever heard.

🎬 WATCH THIS PODCAST CLIP WITH DR. JUSTINE KLUK

Justine raised a fascinating point:

If you applied eye cream to just one eye for 15 years and left the other bare, you would likely see a difference. But - and this is the kicker - would that difference be meaningful enough to justify 15 years of your time and money?

What I use instead of eye cream

Personally, I use my regular moisturiser. My eye area is not particularly problematic. Yes, I have crows feet but I don’t suffer with dark circles or puffiness.

Most high-quality creams, especially if they are fragrance-free, are perfectly safe and effective for the eye area. Unless you have extremely sensitive skin and/or eyes, your regular moisturiser usually does the job.

Justine admitted during our chat that she also uses the same product on her eyes and face too:

“I personally can get my ordinary retinol up to my eyelids without it causing me any problems, so I do that and then I don’t need to use an eye cream.”

Personally, I’d rather spend my beauty budget on a high-potency Retinal or Vitamin C that works on the whole face, rather than a “specially formulated” (and usually marked-up) eye version.

The Exception: When Should You Use Eye Cream?

Justine does note however, that if you have sensitive skin and/or eyes, an eye cream is a 100% a safer way to deliver actives. Brands like CeraVe, Skinceuticals, La Roche Posay offer great options if you fall into this category.

To eye cream or not to eye cream? You do YOU!

Like with other beauty rituals, whether you use eye cream or not, is totally down to choice.

If you love the ritual of an eye cream, keep it! But if you’re looking to streamline your routine, don’t feel guilty for skipping it. Your SPF and your smile lines (the ones I named my podcast after!) are far more important 😁

If you want to listen to the rest of the chat with Justine, listen here:

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This week, I had renowned dermatologist Dr. Sam Bunting on my podcast, Smiling Gives You Wrinkles. I invited her on to talk about adult acne, as she is an expert on the topic, but we also chatted about what makes up a good skincare routine in your forties and fifties.

Like me, and also like the majority of dermatologists, she is a big fan of a ‘less is more’ approach with skincare. Despite testing hundreds of different types of products during my 40s, people are surprised to hear that I only have four simple steps in my routine. No eye cream. No separate neck cream. No essences or trending waters. Just cleanser, moisturiser, SPF and an active.

🎞️ WATCH THIS EXCLUSIVE PODCAST CLIP WITH DR. SAM BUNTING EXPLAINING THE POWER OF A SIMPLE 4 STEP SKINCARE ROUTINE

I have also personally chosen not to go down the Botox or filler route. I have nothing against anyone that does, it’s just not for me and I have my reasons.

One of them being, was when I turned 40, I was approached by Boots, the British drugstore chain, to work on a no-retouching campaign for their in-store magazine. That meant, we could not use any kind of retouching pen on images. If a model turned up with a spot, we could only use concealer to hide it. Just like in a real life. One time, we had a model turn up to a shoot with a bad stye in her eye. We had to just get on with it and figure it out. We played with the crop and some props - sunglasses were used from what I remember - and she looked great!

I worked on this campaign with Boots for over 5 years, and directed over 100 unretouched shoots for them.

I spent my days looking at unedited raw files of women’s faces and I saw the beauty in the tiny lines around the eyes and the real texture of a forehead. I realized then that perfection was a lie we were selling - and I didn’t want to buy it for myself.

Having Botox felt like a betrayal to my work. Sounds dramatic and some could argue extreme, but I’m passionate about inspiring women not to feel the pressure to “fix” the very things I was championing in others. So how could I fix them myself?

I honestly feel like it’s my purpose now to show midlife women that it’s OK not to bow to the pressure to fix the wrinkles, the droops, the age spots. I realise that this is going to get harder as I age and it will be interesting to see how I feel about my face in 5 years time. But what I do know is that my skin will be in great condition thanks to this routine that I have perfected in my forties.

Best 4-Step Skincare Routine for Women Over 40 & 50

So here I am - 10 years after my first unretouched shoot for Boots, and still passionate about showing realness in faces. Of course I still want skin to look good - I just want it to look the best it can for my age. And I want to look like me.

These 4 skincare steps are dermatologist-approved and have helped me keep my skin in its best condition over the last 10 years.

These are the steps that I’ve carried out daily and consistently. And these are the steps that I’ll be continuing into my 50s too!

1. Start With Cleansing: The Most Important Step for Mature Skin

It sounds obvious, but clean skin = healthy skin. And cleansing is not just about hygiene; it’s about prepping the skin for everything that follows.

As Sam explains in my podcast: “I always say if you get cleansing wrong, it’s hard to get skincare right because cleansing can take so much of that natural barrier function away—stripping our skin, leaving it tight and dry, and allowing things to get in that shouldn’t really be getting in.”

Personally, as long as I cleanse properly at night, I only splash my face with water in the morning and then give it a gentle scrub and rinse with an old-fashioned flannel. My “proper” cleanse comes at night to wash the day away. I love a balm cleanser. Sam isn’t a huge fan as she says they can clog the skin, but personally, I haven’t had that problem. As long as I rinse thoroughly and use a face cloth to ensure there isn’t an oily layer left behind, my skin is left clean but really soft.

3 balm cleansers I have on rotation:

• Elemis Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm

• Liz Earle Superskin Cleansing Balm

• Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm

2. Treat: The Best Active Ingredients for Menopause and Aging Skin

This is the step where you use “actives”- products with ingredients like Retinoids, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, or Peptides. These are the products that correct issues like dryness, pigmentation, dullness, fine lines, and loss of collagen.

The actives most commonly found in my regime:

• Retinal: which is basically a stronger, faster-acting form of Retinol. It boosts collagen and improves skin thickness. I use this at night.

  • My picks: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10 Serum and Beauty Pie Youthbomb™ Extreme Retinal Triple Renewal Serum.

• Vitamin C: This brightens skin and fights damage from external aggressors like pollution and UV. Living in Florida, I need this! It supercharges your SPF by fighting free radicals.

  • My picks: Murad Vit-C Glycolic Brightening Serum which is also lightly exfoliating and CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum.

• Hyaluronic Acid: This binds moisture to the surface to plump skin.

  • My picks: Clarins Double Serum or, for a budget-friendly option, The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum.

• Peptides: I’m a huge fan - these are the building blocks of the skin and help with firmness.

  • My pick: Medik8 Advanced Liquid Peptides Serum.

• Ceramides: Crucial for strengthening the skin barrier and locking in moisture. This is why I love CeraVe - all of their products are rich in ceramides.

• AHAs/BHAs: these exfoliate dead skin cells to improve texture, boost radiance, and clear pores. I use one whenever my skin looks dull.

  • My pick: Alpha-H Liquid Gold. Apply it like a toner on dry skin after cleansing.

📝 Right now I’m using a Vitamin C in the morning and a Retinal at night. The other actives will pop in and out of my routine depending on what my skin needs and how it’s behaving. Any questions? Please ask in the comments below :-)

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3. Moisturise 40+ Skin for Locking in Actives and Supporting The Skin Barrier

Most people moisturise because it makes skin feel soft, but it also locks in those important actives you applied in the previous step. It’s like a blanket to keep your skin safe. I love almost any moisturiser by CeraVe - I promise they don’t pay me to talk about them (although I wish they would, ha ha!) - because they are packed with those essential hydrating ceramides.

4. Protect With SPF As 80% Of How We Age is Down to UV

SPF is the most vital step. Living in Florida, I wear SPF 50 every single day.

My favorites right now:

• Supergoop! Protec(tint) Daily Skin Tint SPF 50.

• Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40 (I really want to try this one next!).

• Clarins UV PLUS Anti-Pollution Tinted Sunscreen SPF 50

So, that’s it! Have you noticed anything missing? In my next post, I’ll explain why eye cream isn’t part of my “Daily 4”...

That year, I did something that shifted the perspective of the UK beauty industry forever. It was a career defining move - and one of the key reasons I was later awarded my US 01 Extraordinary Ability Visa for my contribution to the industry.

I introduced “No Retouching” to the British High Street.

Long before “Instagram vs. Reality” was a hashtag, I was advocating for the beauty of real skin texture. These images weren't just pages in a magazine; they were the beginning of a movement.

In 2016, 'flawless' was the industry standard, but I wanted to show skin that looked like skin. Seeing these now, ten years later, I realize they were visionary - a rebellion against the AI and filters that I’m still leading today as I turn 50.

No filters then, no filters now.

As I approach my 50th birthday in June, that mission feels more important than ever. In an era of AI-generated perfection, I’m doubling down on what it looks like to age without filters. What you see is what you get.

Welcome to The 40/50 Project

This isn’t just a trip down memory lane; it’s a strategic roadmap for your skin. Whether you are 39 and looking for a skincare plan or haircare regime, or 49 and looking for the truth about aging without Botox, this series is designed to be your guide.

What is The 40/50 Project?

A Roadmap for your 40s

Whether you’re just starting this decade; in your mid-40s; or like me, approaching 50, I’m going to tell you exactly which skincare and haircare habits to start now and which ones you can safely ditch to save your money, hair and your skin.

I’ve tested thousands of products as a Beauty Editor, and I’ll be revealing the cult beauty products that actually made the cut from my 2016 archives to my 2026 skincare and haircare routine.

A Peak Behind the Scenes

Expect nostalgic stories from 2016 - the year I turned 40. From the reality of a photoshoot trip to Mexico to how I juggled motherhood and a highstakes career. This is a sneak peek into the life of a Beauty Editor, then and now!

The Unretouched Truth

My content has always been honest, unfiltered and unretouched so expect the same. I want you to see the reality of what skin looks like at 40 and now, aged 50.

I have never used Botox, filters or fillers so you will be seeing the unretouched truths (and joys) about what it is really like to age naturally. All from the perspective of a Beauty Editor, whose job it is to find the best products so you don’t have to!

How to follow The 40/50 Project

Subscribe to The Beauty Ed® Substack - I’ll be uploading new installments of The 40/50 Project every Wednesday, so remember to join me each week.

A lot of the content will be free, but you can upgrade to a Paid Subscription for the full Product Deep Dives and my private Behind-The-Scenes Diaries.

UPGRADE TO PAID

I can’t wait for you to come on the journey with me!

I’d love to know: What is the one thing you want to know about aging naturally or the beauty industry?

Let me know in the comments:

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As a Beauty Editor, the question I’m asked most isn’t “What’s new?” but rather: “What do you actually use?” What are the products that live in my bathroom? Which ones reach empty? Which ones do I spend my own money on? While I test hundreds of products a year, these are my constants.

Note: If you notice a gap (like eye cream), it’s because I either don’t use one or haven’t found a “forever” favorite yet. I like to be 100% transparent. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments:

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🧴 SKINCARE: The Foundation

My philosophy: Balm cleansers at night, water-only in the morning, and serious protection for that Florida sun.

The Best Balm Cleansers

I rotate between these three balm cleansers depending on what’s on my shelf, but the result is the same for soft, clean, pampered skin.

• Elemis Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm

• Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm

• Liz Earle Superskin Cleansing Balm

The Vitamin C Glow

I never skip Vitamin C for glow and also extra protection. CeraVe Skin Renewing 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum is a daily staple. If my skin needs a “kick up the a*rse,” I reach for Murad Vita-C Glycolic Serum - the glycolic acid wakes the skin up and improves texture.

The Night Shift (Retinols & Peptides)

• For Texture: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10. This is the gold standard for smoothing and boosting collagen. It’s the brand I recommend to everyone.

• For Repair: No7 Future Renew Night Serum. The peptides are incredible for skin recovery and repairing damage.

Moisture & Sun Protection

• The Household Staple: CeraVe Daily Moisturising Lotion. It’s in every bathroom in my house. I use it face-to-body.

• The Luxury Face Sunscreens: Living in Florida, SPF is non-negotiable. I love Clarins Dry Touch Facial Sunscreen SPF 50+ or RoC Retinol Correxion SPF 30 for that day-cream feel.

• The Florida Must-Haves: We go through bottles of Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist SPF 70. (UK friends: Stock up when you visit the US!) I also hide my Vacation SPF50 Spray from the kids because it smells too good to share. I also love Target Sport Sunscreen Spray SPF50 for on-the-go.

• The Face SPF I’ve Got My Friends to Buy Too: e.l.f Skin Suntouchable Whoa Glow SPF30 is a brilliant face SPF and acts as a great makeup primer too.

• The Night Recovery: If I’m dehydrated, I use Kyushi Night Recovery Face Oil. The lavender and jasmine blend smells beautiful.

• The Bedside Essential: Dr. Paw Paw Overnight Lip Mask.

🚿 BODY: High-Low Luxury

I don’t have a bath, so my shower and post-shower steps are my “me time.”

• The Body Wash: I love the skincare-focused formulas from Dove and Olay. For a luxe scent that doesn’t break the bank, Soap & Glory (available at Walgreens/Boots) is unbeatable.

• The Hydration: Joonbyrd Sunday Sofa Body Butter is my new obsession - the smell is divine. For something reliable, I go back to Soap & Glory The Righteous Butter.

💇‍♀️ HAIR: The Repair Specialists

I wash my hair three times a week and firmly believe in spending more on high-quality formulations.

• The Luxe Shampoos: I’m currently loving Champö Volumising Pitta, but I always keep Living Proof and Olaplex in the rotation.

• The Game Changer: K18 Leave-In Molecular Intensive Hair Mask. I have paid for every single $75 bottle myself. It has transformed the strength of my hair from the inside out.

• The Tools: The Dyson Supersonic Hairdryer and Corrale Straightener are pricey, but they are worth the investment for long-term hair health.

💄 MAKEUP: The “Skin-First” Edit

As I age, my makeup gets lighter. I want my skin to show through.

• The Base: I prefer lightweight tints with skincare benefits like Naked Sundays BeautyScreen™ SPF 50 or Beauty Pie Superluminous Tinted Skin Serum.

• The Blush: I alternate between Jones Road Lip & Cheek Stick (Bright Pink) and Merit Flush Balm (Stockholm). These shades are perfect for any skin tone.

• The Eyes: For everyday definition, e.l.f. Wow Brow Gel is a must for my brows. For eyelashes, I always curl my lashes with Tweezerman Eyelash Curlers and for mascara, Sweed Cloud Mascara is my current fav - it’s a tubing formula, so it won’t smudge on my contact lenses.

• The Signature Nail: I never stray from OPI “Let’s Be Friends.”

🖋️ FRAGRANCE: The Final Step

I wear perfume even when I’m home alone. You can truly smell the quality in high-end fragrance.

My current rotation:

1. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess

2. Tom Ford Cafe Rose

3. Initio Side Effect

4. Frederic Malle Outrageous

Editor’s Note: This post contains affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. I only ever recommend products I genuinely use, love, and finish.

I hope this was helpful! I’d love to know if you have tried any of these products or if you have any questions…

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