Emily in Paris Season 5: The Italian Beauty & Style Edit
From the Italian smoky eye to sharper tailoring: how to recreate Emily Cooper’s sophisticated new Roman look.
With season five in full swing, Emily in Paris shifts quietly, but decisively. Moving between Paris and Rome, Emily Cooper’s world becomes more precise: sharper tailoring, print-led dressing, and sleeker beauty choices. The shorter hair is the most telling change; slicked back and intentional, it finally allows the makeup to take centre stage.
I love the beauty and styling of this season in particular, because it finally taps into an Italian sensibility I know well; the smokey eyes, the sleeker hair, the slightly cinematic edge. After living and travelling solo in Italy, studying its films, and spending most my time at Il Cinema Modernissimo, this shift feels familiar rather than aspirational; it’s the first time Emily’s look aligns with a world I recognise.
To achieve this elevated look, head makeup artist Aurélie Payen has traded the playful whimsy of earlier seasons for a sophisticated, Roman-inspired palette. This isn’t just a trend shift - it’s a character evolution.
The Makeup Shift: The Italian Smoky Eye
Season five marks a clear departure from Emily’s earlier makeup. The novelty liners fall away, replaced by deeper, smokier eyes that nod to Italian cinema, think Monica Bellucci inspired makeup.
The rule here is control. Nothing sharp, nothing overly perfected. It’s makeup that’s deliberate without being heavy; softly blended, quietly confident, and unmistakably chic.
Step by Step: Recreating the Emily Cooper Smoky Eye
The "Roman look" is defined by a soft-focus intensity. It’s less about sharp lines and more about lived-in luxury.
1. 🎬 The On-Set Essential: Diorshow On Stage Crayon (099 Black)
Used by Aurélie Payen to build the foundation of Emily’s new smokey eye, this creamy, deeply pigmented liner is designed to be blended before it sets.
Apply it liberally, blend immediately. It’s perfect for that smoked lash-line effect, Italian makeup does so well.
2. Chanel OMBRE ESSENTIELLE EYESHADOW
Layer this over your liner to diffuse the edges and gently smudge it upwards. This is the kind of product that does the work quietly - buildable, wearable, unfussy.
3. A neutral brown eyeshadow
Pressed lightly around the edges to soften and blur. This step is what keeps the look elegant rather than heavy.
How To Wear The Season 5 Blue Eyeliner Trend
One of season five’s strongest beauty moments is Emily’s Pride look: a sweep of blue eyeliner paired with a deeper lip. It’s bold without feeling loud, and when done properly, entirely wearable.
How to wear blue eyeliner now:
Crayon textures work best; they give intensity without harshness and can be softly built rather than sharply drawn. Let the eye do the work, keeping skin fresh and lips satin rather than glossy.
Editor-approved blue liners:
🎬 The On-Set Essential: Diorshow On Stage Crayon (254 Blue)
Waterproof, and particularly good for layering.
Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof (38 Bleu Métal)
Creamy, precise, and smudgeable before it sets.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eyeliner (Super Blue)
A standout crayon formula that glides on effortlessly and wears beautifully into the night.
🌈For added intensity:
Press a vivid blue shadow over the liner using a fine brush.The Morphe x Maddie Ziegler Imagination Palette (shade 5) delivers a saturated pop without overwhelming the eye.
The Lashes
A smoky eye needs definition - but never spidery lashes.
🎬 The On-Set Essentials
These products were used on Lily Collins in season 5, according to the show’s head makeup artist: Aurélie Payen, and the results speak for themselves!
YSL Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara
This gives thickness, lift, and intensity. (I adore this mascara for volume).
By Terry Ombre Blackstar Eyeshadow
Creamy, long-wearing, and ideal for building depth.
Emily In Paris Season 5 Fashion: Italian Tailoring & Prints
Fashion in Emily in Paris season five leans heavily into print: polka dots, pinstripes, and structured shirts. The novelty is dialled down; repetition and tailoring take precedence.
Pinstripes, in particular, feel intentional. Long associated with Italian tailoring and power dressing, they add authority and glamour without trying too hard.
Emily’s Italian chic, translated:
· Fitted shirts
· Gorgeous prints
· Ballet flats
· One strong lip
· Minimal but intentional jewellery
Get the Look: Episode One, La Dolce Emily
One of the strongest outfits appears in episode one, a print-led look, and my personal favourite.
The Exact Sebline Jacket from Episode 1
Similar editor-approved alternatives👠
· Ralph Lauren Striped Cotton Broadcloth Cropped Shirt
Printed shorts
· Claudie Pierlot Tie-Up Printed Shorts
Flats
I’d love to know what you think; which looks stood out to you, and how you’re feeling about this new, more Italian-leaning era of Emily?
Comment below with your favourites, and if you’d like deeper breakdowns or more “get the look” edits, say the word.
-Gia xo
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Love Dior & Tilbury liners!!
Brilliant read as always, Gia!