Retinol Is A Bit of A Minefield Isn't It?

I've put together a beginners guide, with the help of a dermatologist

So many of you ask me about retinol, and it’s mostly because you just don’t know where to start. What strength do you need? How much should you be spending? And what is the deal with all the long words?

You have Retinol, but what about Retinal - the one with the “A”? Granactive Retinoid? Retinyl palmitate? WTH is that? And don’t get me started on the numbers: 0.3%? 1%? 10%?

I get the retinol confusion! And that’s coming from a Beauty Editor. But that’s why I wanted to really simplify it for you and just give you the info you need.

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What is Retinol?

First up, let me explain what retinol is. The umbrella term for this group of ingredients is Retinoids.

Retinol: The most common version you can buy over the counter.

Retinal: A stronger, faster-acting version of Retinol

Granactive Retinoid: A newer retinoid that provides similar benefits but is better tolerated by sensitive skins.

Retinol is considered to be one of the best, most effective ingredients in skincare. Dermatologists are big fans because it has been proven in numerous studies to actually work. Even Harvard says so!

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What does retinol actually do for 40+ skin?

The reason we hear about it so much is that so many brands are now introducing it into their formulas because they know it actually works! And it’s especially brilliant for 40+ skin because it stimulates collagen and elastin production - the proteins that make your skin look plump and bouncy. Think baby skin!

And as you get older, collagen production slows down. It actually begins to decline gradually from the age of 25, and then, when you hit perimenopause, it drops rapidly. Oh, joy! That’s why skin appears to have more lines and starts sagging.

🎬 WATCH THIS CLIP FROM MY PODCAST WITH DERMATOLOGIST DR. JUSTINE KLUK

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Retinol is also great for brightening your skin as it gently removes the top layers, so it works hard to reduce pigmentation and it just helps the skin look more glowy. It’s perfect for targeting those niggles that many of us face as we (luckily) age: fine lines, pigmentation, rough texture, and dehydration.

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The “Marathon Not A Sprint” Rule

Here’s where you have to be careful. If you use a formula that is too strong for your skin, it will damage your skin barrier - the outer layer - causing dryness and irritation. And as aging skin = drying skin, this is NOT what you need.

There is a “sweet spot” for retinol use. To find it, you must choose the right strength and formulation for your specific skin type. As my friend and consultant dermatologist Dr. Justine Kluk said on the podcast:

“It’s always a good idea if you’re new to things to start at a low strength and build up gradually. Looking after our skin is a marathon, not a race. We don’t have to use the strongest one right from the outset. If we find one that suits our skin, we can use it for upwards of 20 years or so.”

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When should you use retinol?

Retinol is best used at night. This is partly because skin repairs itself while you sleep, making it ready to “drink in” the goodness.

But the big reason most people don’t realize is stability. Sunlight can break down retinol, making it less stable and less effective. You don’t want to spend money on a product only for it to be destabilized by the sun!

Also, retinoids make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so wearing SPF the following morning is non-negotiable.

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How long does retinol take to work?

Personally, I feel a difference the morning after - my skin just feels softer because it’s been working overnight to dissolve dryness.

But for real change:

• 1 Month: Most people notice smoother skin.

• 3 Months: That “glow” and radiance really start to kick in.

• 12 Months: This is the timeline for structural changes, like reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Don’t give up unless your skin has a bad reaction!

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Is it ever too late to start?

It’s never too late, but starting later just means you’ve missed a window of prevention. Dr. Justine believes the sweet spot is from your late 20s to your early 50s.

🎬 I’LL LET DR. JUSTINE KLUK EXPLAIN…

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Coming in Part 2: The Editor’s Edit

I really hope that was helpful! Now that you know the science, you’re probably wondering: “Great, but which one do I actually buy?”

Check your inbox next Wednesday - and I’ll let you know 💌

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If you’d like to listen to the rest of the podcast with Dr. Justin Kluk, click the link below👇